UESP Forums

Don't think there's currently an active thread like this. So, simply, what car (or cars, you lucky buggers!) do you drive or own?

Myself? Volkswagen Polo 2006 (Mk4) 1.2 in Black. So not the worst first car haha.

Start your engines!

Mine is a silver 2005 Ford Focus.
I'm thinking of replacing it sometime in the next few years; it's getting old (120k miles - starting to get up there but not bad shape to trade it in) and it definitely has its quirks:
- electric issue causes about 3 lights to remain constantly on or flickering when they're not supposed to (got that checked first thing when I got it but nothing they can do)
- CD player is finicky sometimes
- trunk infrequently decides it'll only open with the key
- there's some sort of issue when you turn the dial for the fans (say from defrost to floor) where something gets stuck and it won't turn past a certain point for a couple tries.
- Also just takes forever to warm up in the winter compared to my parents' cars and doesn't get anywhere near as warm

So not urgent things, just kinda annoying.

I'm not sure what kind of car I'd want to get after it. I love having a hatchback and space to haul things (for instance my bike fits perfectly if I flatten the back seats, and I also managed to fit a recliner in there oncr), and it's so small and easy to park and I can back right up to things. Thing is though that when it's small, that means less comfortable.

Mazda 2 - dark red.
It's a few years old now.

2010 Ford Fusion. This will be my last time getting a black sedan. The body and colour are so generic it's hard to spot in a busy parking lot, especially at night.
Next time: colour!

2000 Toyota Tacoma. The interior is still ripped apart from when I attempted to install a Raspberry Pi. Been looking for a project car for damn near a year now.

Alarra wrote: - electric issue causes about 3 lights to remain constantly on or flickering when they're not supposed to (got that checked first thing when I got it but nothing they can do)

This is most likely a 'short' and it can be fixed but the problem is a massive PITA to track down and would cost a ton of money for a minor issue. I've a similar problem with my tacoma's passenger side marker light.

Alarra wrote: - there's some sort of issue when you turn the dial for the fans (say from defrost to floor) where something gets stuck and it won't turn past a certain point for a couple tries.

If this is what I'm thinking of this is an infuriating issue (to me). Happened to an old work truck I used to drive. Basically the dial/knob is connected to vents behind your dash via a cord with a cable inside it. Turning the knob will push/pull the cable and open/close the vents. Over years they can get 'gunked up' and eventually reach the point where the knob doesn't turn at all.

It has four wheels and is red/burgundy shade... Ya, I know I should be ashamed 'Spoilers' I'm not

I've got a bright blue 2016 Honda Civic Coupe (it's fairly new, by a few months). I wasn't a fan of Honda before because of some things I heard about them, but goddamn is this car smooth, dependable, and extremely nice looking. Gets fantastic gas mileage too.

leroybrown wrote:

Alarra wrote: - electric issue causes about 3 lights to remain constantly on or flickering when they're not supposed to (got that checked first thing when I got it but nothing they can do)

This is most likely a 'short' and it can be fixed but the problem is a massive PITA to track down and would cost a ton of money for a minor issue. I've a similar problem with my tacoma's passenger side marker light.

It might have been caused by the previous owner of my car; they'd had an aftermarket remote starter installed, and I remember when I took the car in to get checked out when I first got it they said it looked like it was done in a weird way. Can't remember if they said that's what might've caused it and/or if that's why they couldn't do anything about that. Remote starter works, at least; that's a big plus when it's 20 below outside.

leroybrown wrote:

Alarra wrote: - there's some sort of issue when you turn the dial for the fans (say from defrost to floor) where something gets stuck and it won't turn past a certain point for a couple tries.

If this is what I'm thinking of this is an infuriating issue (to me). Happened to an old work truck I used to drive. Basically the dial/knob is connected to vents behind your dash via a cord with a cable inside it. Turning the knob will push/pull the cable and open/close the vents. Over years they can get 'gunked up' and eventually reach the point where the knob doesn't turn at all.

Is that something that can be fixed?

VirtualWeasel wrote:I've got a bright blue 2016 Honda Civic Coupe (it's fairly new, by a few months). I wasn't a fan of Honda before because of some things I heard about them, but goddamn is this car smooth, dependable, and extremely nice looking. Gets fantastic gas mileage too.

:

:

That's a good looking car you've got there.
And I see it matches your font colour.

Aarah wrote:That's a good looking car you've got there.
And I see it matches your font colour.

I can't drive :(

I'll keep this thread under my sight so that I know my choice two years later.

Alarra wrote:

leroybrown wrote:

Alarra wrote: - there's some sort of issue when you turn the dial for the fans (say from defrost to floor) where something gets stuck and it won't turn past a certain point for a couple tries.

If this is what I'm thinking of this is an infuriating issue (to me). Happened to an old work truck I used to drive. Basically the dial/knob is connected to vents behind your dash via a cord with a cable inside it. Turning the knob will push/pull the cable and open/close the vents. Over years they can get 'gunked up' and eventually reach the point where the knob doesn't turn at all.

Is that something that can be fixed?

Short answer: I dunno.

Long answer: Absolutely. Everything that goes wrong with a vehicle can be fixed. The question is, is it worth it. The issue needs to be properly diagnosed, not only could it be the cable(s) but there could be something physically getting in way of the vent. I don't imagine this costing much due to parts, but labor will get ya bad. I imagine this is why your mechanic told you your lights can't be fixed; they're gonna have to de-ghetto rig a vehicle and pray that fixes the problem. It's referred to as an 'electrical gremlin.'

Mechanics are taught a kind of double speak. When I was going to an auto body trade school they told us never to tell customers that we're using Bondo but instead say we're using a small amount of filler. The reason for this is people don't understand when they take there car in to get a ding fixed that Bondo is actually the way to properly repair said damage. Customers often think that's a shoddy fix and say they "don't want any of that Bondo crap" but the alternative is brutal. Like in the thousands.

A 2010 Toyota Corolla. Fully paid off, so it's all mine.

2010 C6 Chevrolet Corvette LT1. Cyber Grey color. Auto, Coupe, 19 inch matching color wheels. Tint, 160 degree thermostat, Dual-mode exhaust, K&N intake, Dyno'd at Breathless Performance.

Ran 404 bhp, 401 tq.

Fiar wrote: Fully paid off, so it's all mine.

Not this guy spending a fortune each month oh well, totally worth it

Some pics!

Topless Hoodie on

Damn, Hat, when you meant topless, you meant topless.

[&@%!] car (And suit) by the by!

I drive a Subaru, 4 wheel drive because it's the only way to roll here in the big AK.

^ Turbo? Always been a Suburu fan (they make a lot of AWD turbo cars) but yet to own one.

I love to drive Ford Endeavour.

Looking more seriously now at getting a newer car.

In addition to the “annoying quirks” mentioned above (plus some new ones! Like when I turn the volume down with the control by the steering wheel, it actually turns it up instead for a second or two), it’s getting to the point that things are getting rusty and I have to keep getting it repaired: among them, I’ve had to replace all the sway bar links, brake pads, cruise control cable, O-ring for the air conditioning, brackets holding up the muffler and similar small stuff underneath, and they fixed something with the tire rims being rusty too. It’s still in relatively good shape: still looks decent, and there haven’t been any huge problems, but I think it’s about time to judge how much money I want to keep putting into this thing, especially since I’m currently looking at replacing the tires and muffler (both aren’t urgent but have issues: the tires have a very slow leak that means I have to top the air up once every few weeks/a month or so, and the muffler’s really rusty and already has a hole rusted through it).

I’m considering maybe a Ford Escape or Ford Edge if I can find something within my price range. I want something newer so that I won’t be running into issues with rust, I like Fords, and I definitely want to have a hatchback rather than a trunk in my next vehicle.

You live in an area where it snows?

100% do the tires before the muffler. Muffler is just annoying when it goes but it's not a safety issue. Odd that tires are leaking that should never happen even if they're balled. I consider tires (generally speaking) to be more important than brakes because if they 'go' then your brakes can't help you. If brakes die you can still e-brake and downshift but if tires go you have zero grip and are very much screwed.

How many tires have a leak? You should really get that checked out if they're not too bad off you can just get them patched for now and that'll be fine. Patching is relatively cheap.

I had my own issues the other day: Battery completely died. The problem was there's a button near your brake pedal lever which is pressed when you hit the brakes which signals the bake lights to come on. There's a 'bumper pad' that signals them to turn off, for me it was a piece of plastic that broke off so even when the truck was off the brake lights were on. I have it currently rigged with pennies taped together until the actual part ships in the mail. Kinda bs cause it's just a simple piece of plastic but it costs $10 because it has the toyota name slapped on it.

leroybrown wrote:You live in an area where it snows?

100% do the tires before the muffler. Muffler is just annoying when it goes but it's not a safety issue. Odd that tires are leaking that should never happen even if they're balled. I consider tires (generally speaking) to be more important than brakes because if they 'go' then your brakes can't help you. If brakes die you can still e-brake and downshift but if tires go you have zero grip and are very much screwed.

How many tires have a leak? You should really get that checked out if they're not too bad off you can just get them patched for now and that'll be fine. Patching is relatively cheap.

I had my own issues the other day: Battery completely died. The problem was there's a button near your brake pedal lever which is pressed when you hit the brakes which signals the bake lights to come on. There's a 'bumper pad' that signals them to turn off, for me it was a piece of plastic that broke off so even when the truck was off the brake lights were on. I have it currently rigged with pennies taped together until the actual part ships in the mail. Kinda bs cause it's just a simple piece of plastic but it costs $10 because it has the toyota name slapped on it.

Yep, very much so lol. My light little car doesn't drive well in the snow unfortunately.

For the tires, they used to be leaking faster before I got it checked - my dad noticed once when I was visiting my parents that they looked low, and I started paying attention and discovered that they were losing about 5-10 psi in a matter of 2-3 days, whereas now it's more like 5ish over a few weeks/month - it's mainly the rear passenger side and the front driver's side. When I brought it in they said it was an issue caused by rust; whatever they did (I presume they patched it) slowed it anyway.

Oh hey, what a neat thread!

I drive an '09 Mazda 6. I call her the Aluminum Falcon.

Her volume knob is broken, she's missing a hubcap, has no Bluetooth capabilities, and the dashboard is sticky. But she's mine and I love her. She's survived multiple hurricane season floods!

We should all buy a bunch of land and found the UESP commune. I'll fix your car and you help me with the Rasp Pi/Arduino etc. Anyway,

Alarra wrote: For the tires, they used to be leaking faster before I got it checked - my dad noticed once when I was visiting my parents that they looked low, and I started paying attention and discovered that they were losing about 5-10 psi in a matter of 2-3 days, whereas now it's more like 5ish over a few weeks/month - it's mainly the rear passenger side and the front driver's side. When I brought it in they said it was an issue caused by rust; whatever they did (I presume they patched it) slowed it anyway.

Really weird. Never heard of wheels rusting that bad but again in FL no snow so no salt on roads. My '66 has original(ish) wheels and they're not rusted whereas the rest of the car is a rust bucket.

They wouldn't patch a leak caused by rust (think of it like plugging a hole if you ran over a nail). I would assume you had a bit of rust around the schrader valves (things you connect air hose to, same as on your bike) which were probably replaced. But, again, I've seen snow like twice in my life so maybe that's more common in your area.

And a random note for everyone here: keep all your receipts when you have work done. I have a manila folder and I put them in chronological order.